AMA Tasting Report
Bordeaux 2023 In Bottle and
Release of “AMA Selection” 2023

I still remember that in late April 2023, just after I had finished my Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur tastings, friends around me were already reminding me, “2023 doesn’t really look like a good vintage.” A few people from within the trade were even more direct, saying the wines felt thin and rather bland. I didn’t agree, but I didn’t argue either. I simply smiled and left a calm sentence behind: “Let’s look again once the wines are bottled.”

Now, having completed a systematic tasting of more than 1,000 bottled wines from the 2023 vintage, I find that the overall performance after bottling is highly consistent with what was shown during En Primeur. This is very much a what-you-see-is-what-you-get vintage.

Which means I can now say again, with confidence, what I wrote back then in my En Primeur report, even if it sounded a little against the tide at the time: the 2023 vintage combines elegance with maturity. It expresses a form of Bordeaux Neo-classicism: a classic Bordeaux temperament interpreted through modern winemaking. Put simply, it is a vintage that professionals can understand clearly, and that everyday wine lovers can enjoy with ease. 

The true value of the 2023 vintage is still far from fully recognized by the market, much like 1983 in the shadow of 1982, or 2001 beside 2000. 

If a comparison must be made, 2023 is not a “love-at-first-sight” beauty, but rather the kind that grows more compelling the longer you look. It does not step straight into the spotlight; instead, over time, its gentle and well-defined halo gradually reveals itself, winning you over through a sustained, measured expression. 

Overall ratings for the 2023 vintage: ★★★★☆

Why do I consider 2023 a good vintage?

Friends familiar with AMA will know that when I assess a vintage, I rely on a personal framework of what I call “5+1” Essential Conditions for a Great Vintage.

Before seeing the final weather data, I never felt that 2023 was a particularly warm year. At least from my own experience in Bordeaux, most of the season actually felt rather cool. The data, however, told a very different story. The average temperature across the entire growing season in 2023 was even higher than in 2019, while total rainfall was lower than in 2018, a year widely known for its heat. This makes it impossible to label 2023 simply as a “hot vintage”; the only meaningful approach is to look closely at the key moments.

To put it metaphorically, the 2023 growing season closely resembled labour pains before childbirth. The first half was full of problems and pressure, but when harvest finally arrived, it delivered a major surprise.

Spring was warm and wet, with a very smooth flowering, laying the foundation for high yields. From June onward, persistent rainfall caused berries to swell rapidly, while pressure from downy mildew rose sharply.

It is worth noting that while much of Bordeaux sat under relentless rain, two areas seemed to open small “windows in the clouds”. One lay along the border between Saint-Estèphe and Pauillac, while the other hovered directly above Pomerol. Unsurprisingly, these zones went on to become some of the best-performing appellations of the vintage.

By July, the weather suddenly turned cool and dry, as if vine growth had been switched to half speed. To be honest, during that period I was deeply concerned about ripeness.

Just as everyone’s nerves were stretched to the limit, a dramatic reversal arrived.

From mid-August to early September, two successive heatwaves swept through, arriving one closely on the heels of the other. The first, in mid-August, is something I will never forget. It came at the very moment my son was born. The day after this little Leo was born, on August 17, temperatures jumped from 26°C to 36°C, then repeatedly pushed close to 40°C in the days that followed. Fire signs do have a temperament of their own!

In the vineyards, the effects of this heat were immediate. Sugar accumulation and phenolic ripeness, which had previously progressed slowly, suddenly began to advance in tandem. Berries that had seemed slightly “plump” earlier in the season shed weight under the intense sun. Late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, in particular, excelled, showing clear definition and impressive structure, fully deserving the title of a Cabernet Sauvignon year.

One thing is worth keeping in mind. While many estates reported yields above 50 hl/ha, this was by no means the case everywhere. Some vineyards were hit hard by downy mildew in June, with the lowest yields I saw dropping to just 5 hl/ha. The success of the 2023 vintage, in the end, did not come easily.

If you are interested in more detail, the vintage appendix is there for you to explore at your own pace.

Red Wines | The Most Agreeable Kind

In broad terms, the 2023 vintage comes across as the most agreeable kind of red wine, generous yet measured, easy to like but never shallow. Aromas are lively and open, with well-defined fruit; on the palate, the wines feel crisp and juicy, supported by fresh, transparent acidity.

This is not a vintage that relies on sheer weight. Instead, it finds its identity in detail and texture. Ripeness is spot on, sweet without being showy. Some wines even display a certain Pinot Noir–like restraint, which is why, in my tasting notes, I repeatedly found myself using expressions such as “warmly expressive” and “gracefully appealing”.

Structurally, an ideal balance emerges between a gentle mouthfeel and underlying depth. The palate is relatively light on its feet, yet thanks to precise extraction and the use of high-quality press wine, the texture remains supple and satisfying. This combination of lightness in form and substance within is precisely what makes the 2023 reds so approachable immediately after bottling.

The 2023 vintage also acts as a true “mirror of terroir”. Red wines from different soil types reveal their personalities with striking clarity: the generosity of gravel, the elegance of limestone, the firmness of clay, and the relaxed character of sandy soils are all clearly expressed. For consumers who enjoy exploring the nuances of terroir, 2023 offers an excellent point of entry.

One further aspect left a particularly strong impression on me. Across both Left and Right Banks, the red wines of this vintage repeatedly show a kind of “sweetness” that is difficult to explain scientifically, yet undeniably charming. There is often a subtle, almost peach-tinted sense of mellow pleasure, gently intoxicating and highly evocative.

And what about the wines that fall short? When harvesting is too early, fruit selection is insufficiently rigorous, or green harvesting is poorly executed, a lack of concentration can leave the wines feeling hollow, with aging potential significantly reduced. This is a point I will return to in greater detail in the following section on individual appellations.

White Wines | A Snow-Skin Mooncake with a Core

The white wines of 2023 truly won me over. This is, without question, a great vintage. During tastings, I found myself nodding along to the rhythm of the swirling glass more times than I could count.

Dry whites in 2023 achieve something rare: they place the ripeness of a warm year and the freshness of a cool year side by side on the palate. When drinking them, the image that comes to mind is a snow-skin mooncake with a filling. The outer layer is supple and refreshing, while the core is driven by high acidity, vibrant and energetic. There is a sense of movement in the wines, making them equally enjoyable at the table or on their own.

Aromatically, ripe notes of white peach, apricot, and green mango gently support a citrus-driven freshness, releasing a subtle warmth almost without notice. Once on the palate, that “snow-skin” layer seems to melt away, as clear, focused acidity surges forward alongside an honest, straightforward mineral edge. The transition from warmth to energy brings a sensation much like the push you feel when a tram pulls away from the platform—direct, lively, and genuinely exhilarating.

Over the past year, many friends in China have repeatedly reached out to me with questions about white wines. In response to this growing interest, I have put together a substantial “AMA Selection” for white wines, created especially for you. No more words needed—take a screenshot and save it.

Noble Rot Wines | Depth, Balance, and a Proven Performer

In my understanding of noble sweet wines, the presence of botrytis must be given full respect. Dried grapes may have a role to play, but only as a supporting element. They should never steal the show. Concentration and sugar levels certainly matter, but without a line of high acidity running through the wine from start to finish, linking structure and energy, the result is little more than an accumulation of sweetness. As for aromatics, purity is essential. Like a prism, they should refract a full spectrum of colours in the glass. Only when all of these elements come together can a noble sweet wine truly possess a soul.

The 2023 vintage is precisely such a case.

From late September to early October 2023, botrytis arrived swiftly and with force. What followed was a period of sustained, stable dry weather, allowing the fungus to develop quickly and with great precision, almost entirely free from unwanted interference. Even more importantly, gentle breezes during harvest further accelerated concentration while elevating the overall quality of the botrytis itself.

Thanks to this exceptionally high-quality botrytis, the wines retain remarkably pure, clearly defined fruit aromas, even while reaching very high sugar concentrations.

As a result, 2023 stands out as a rare great vintage for noble sweet wines, combining both quality and quantity. For those who have remained committed to producing botrytised wines, this is a year worth smiling about.

This concludes my overall overview of the Bordeaux 2023 vintage. Having read this far, you should now have a clear picture of the style and contours of the vintage. As for which estates truly stood out in 2023, you can turn directly to my carefully curated “AMA Selection.”

For more seasoned enthusiasts, as well as those working on the front lines of the trade, I invite you to follow me into Bordeaux’s individual sub-appellations, one by one. The in-depth analysis that follows should give you plenty to draw on in discussions with peers in the trade.

Saint-Estèphe | A Hard Man with His Edges Softened

When Saint-Estèphe is mentioned, many people instinctively think of descriptors such as “late-ripening” and “powerful”. In the 2023 vintage, however, that familiar image may need a slight adjustment.

Annual rainfall in Saint-Estèphe in 2023 came in at around 866 mm, nearly 15% below a typical year. This was therefore not the “rainy vintage” many might have imagined. Lower rainfall significantly reduced pressure from downy mildew, which proved crucial in allowing Saint-Estèphe to achieve both yield and quality at the same time.

In overall terms, Saint-Estèphe in 2023 can confidently be mentioned in the same breath as 2019 and 2020. It is a vintage with a very high level of completion. The wines are especially pleasing on the palate, often showing a sense of juiciness and smooth flow. Even estates known for their firm tannic structures reveal an unusual warmth this year, making the wines remarkably approachable and easy to like.

There is no shortage of estates worth recommending in Saint-Estèphe in 2023. The three flagships most in the spotlight: Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Calon Ségur and Château Montrose, all delivered thoroughly satisfying results. 

Meanwhile, Château Phélan Ségur, fermented with wild yeasts sourced from its own vineyards, left a particularly strong impression on me. It is, in my view, the single most compelling recommendation in Saint-Estèphe this year.

In addition, after a clear “slimming down”, estates such as Château Haut-Marbuzet, Château Le Crock and Château Tronquoy all show greater juiciness and precision. More accessible-priced namesnincluding Château Capbern, Château Meyney, Château Beau-Site and Château Le Boscq, these names are also well worth close attention from importers. 

Pauillac | Your Most Reliable Ally

Pauillac in 2023 felt notably composed from the very beginning. Rainfall from April to September totalled just 300–400 mm, keeping pressure from downy mildew far lower than in many other appellations.

In terms of results, Pauillac delivered exactly where it should in 2023. Flavour concentration and tannin quality are both right on point. The tannins are calm and finely grained, firm yet measured, providing the structure and backbone that define Pauillac’s identity.

Higher acidity, combined with relatively moderate alcohol levels, gives the fruit greater clarity and lift. The high proportion of new oak is also handled with great restraint, offering structural support while leaving a trace of overt oak influence. As a result, Pauillac in 2023 shows ample vitality even at a young age.

At estate level, performance across the appellation is remarkably consistent. The “amethyst butterfly” transformation of Château Pontet-Canet, the return of the “lion’s heart” at Château Pichon Baron, the classic old-school expression of Château Batailley, and the “twin stars” under the Mouton banner – Château d’Armailhac and Château Clerc Milon – all stand out as particularly dependable choices this year.

All three First Growths perform at their usual, impressive level, but Château Lafite Rothschild gains a slight edge, its style recalling an Eastern sensibility – robes drifting in the wind, the quiet, lingering tone of a flute…

One more estate deserves special mention: Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, long underestimated, has undergone a true transformation following the opening of its new cellar. The 2023 vintage marks nothing less than a milestone in the château’s history.

Saint-Julien | The Model Student

Producers in Saint-Julien have good reason to be pleased in 2023. Many estates recorded yields above 50 hl/ha, giving them greater room for manoeuvre when it came to harvest decisions and quality control. As a result, the appellation’s hallmark sense of ripeness is clearly expressed, while the individual character of each estate also comes through with unusual clarity.

Long known for its vibrant style, Château Gruaud Larose appears even more transparent in 2023, with bright fruit and a lively, easy rhythm. Château Branaire-Ducru, by contrast, shows a restrained yet refined character, measured in its expression and consistently well judged. Château Langoa Barton is perhaps the most striking surprise. Its typically firm structure has softened in 2023, gaining an appealing touch of gentle “sweetness” along the way. I have never encountered a Langoa Barton this supple, and it is well worth close attention from anyone with an interest.

Margaux | Quality Varies, and the Grower Makes the Difference

Margaux faced real challenges from the outset in 2023. June rainfall was noticeably higher than in the other core Médoc appellations discussed earlier, and pressure from downy mildew was significant. Whether ripeness could progress smoothly depended entirely on each estate’s terroir conditions and the precision of its vineyard work. Under these conditions, differences in quality between estates stood out clearly.

Overall, estates with better-controlled yields, stricter vineyard management, and more decisive judgment at key moments clearly held the upper hand. Château Margaux is a perfect example. Its signature sense of beauty aligns almost seamlessly with the clarity and transparency of the 2023 vintage. Compared with the legendary 2022, I personally prefer Château Margaux in 2023.

Also memorable is Château Cantenac Brown, whose expression feels especially agile and vibrant, carrying a distinctly youthful energy; Château Kirwan, where violet aromas seem to brush softly across the cheeks as the palate grows ever more refined; and the “mermaid” Château Giscours, combining graceful form with a steady inner core. These are some of Margaux’s finest moments in 2023.

One thing to keep in mind is this: while the grand vins of the leading estates largely stay true to their established styles, the second labels are more uneven. Tannins often show sharper edges, with less of the suppleness and calm poise that the Margaux appellation should offer, so careful selection is essential.

Listrac & Moulis | Softness All the Way Through

In 2023, Listrac is not, overall, a strong vintage. Tannins are less supple than in recent years, the palate lacks real depth, and fruit expression remains relatively restrained, giving the wines a lighter overall presence. That said, even within this rather muted picture, a few estates manage to stand out. Château Fourcas Hosten is a clear example. Thanks to the clarity and focus brought by high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon, it draws the eye and ranks among the rare, pleasant surprises of Listrac in 2023.

By contrast, Moulis shows a gentler overall profile this year. Tannins are not abundant, yet they display an almost film-like smoothness. While the aromatic layers are not especially complex, the wines carry a soft, approachable charm that makes them easy to like from the outset.

Taken together, neither Listrac nor Moulis in 2023 is about concentration. One leans lighter and more restrained; the other softer and more fluid. Both are best enjoyed in their youth, where their delicacy comes across most clearly.

Pessac-Léognan | Be Cautious with the Reds, Bold with the Whites

When it comes to red wines from Pessac-Léognan in 2023, attention should largely be focused on the leading estates.

The impact of downy mildew was particularly pronounced in this appellation. Many wines feel hollow through the mid-palate, lacking substance, with finishes that come across as rather weak. This sense of emptiness is even more evident among second wines. That said, there are exceptions. The second label of Château Latour-Martillac, Lagrave-Martillac, stands out as a notable one, delivering a level of quality comparable to the grand vins of some estates. Careful fruit selection is clearly at play here.

By contrast, the white wines of Pessac-Léognan in 2023 are a real morale booster. Overall performance is strikingly strong. Many of the virtues I highlighted earlier in the section on white wine styles come together here almost one after another: a palate that is crisp yet gently sweet, aromas that are clear and pure, and structures that feel transparent yet full of tension. The wines are refreshing, rhythmic, and genuinely energising – the more I drink, the more engaged I become.

In the “AMA Selection” for white wines, a number of estates from Pessac-Léognan feature prominently. Those with a particular fondness for the appellation would do well to pick a few bottles and spend some time with them.

Pomerol | The Brightest Star of the Vintage

If I had to choose between 2022 and 2023 in Pomerol, I would not hesitate for a second: 2023 would be my pick. Prices are more approachable, and the overall level across the appellation is, on average, even more convincing.

Looking at the weather conditions in 2023, Pomerol can almost be described as the most ideally placed sub-appellation in all of Bordeaux. From May to July, temperatures were only slightly above historical averages, while rainfall during the same period came in at around 100 mm below normal. In other words, throughout the growing season, vines enjoyed conditions that were mild but never hot, dry yet never water-stressed. This matched Pomerol’s naturally early-ripening terroir perfectly – quite literally a case of nature lending a helping hand.

In warmer vintages, Pomerol often struggles with elevated alcohol levels and overripe fruit. In 2023, however, the vast majority of wines stayed below 14% alcohol, with many clustering around 13%. Fruit expression is juicy and clear, yet paired with a freshness of acidity and a sense of transparency on the palate that are not always associated with Pomerol.

Precisely because of this style, differences between soil types come through with unusual clarity. Wines from sandy soils feel light and refreshing, immediately charming in their youth. Those from clay and gravel plateaus, meanwhile, retain depth and richness, while remaining lively and full on the palate, simply outstanding.

Saint-Émilion | Vineyard Management Makes All the Difference

In 2023, Saint-Émilion proved to be a vintage that placed exceptionally high demands on vineyard management. Low-lying parcels were particularly exposed to downy mildew, and the challenge was even greater for estates working under organic or biodynamic practices. As a result, clear gaps opened up, both in quality and in yields.

The most successful wines tend to come from estates already known for their skill in tannin management. Here, fruit expression is clean and precise, tannins are open and supple, and relatively moderate alcohol levels simply enhance generosity without leaving any trace of heat. Add to this the classically high acidity found on Saint-Émilion’s limestone plateaus in 2023, and the wines become dangerously drinkable – once the glass is raised, it is hard to stop.

The vintage’s distinctive sense of softness gives what are normally clearly defined structures a lively, almost playful feel in their youth. Even Saint-Christophe de Bardes, a château better known for firm tannins, shows an unexpectedly gentle side this year. The performances of Château Bellefont-Belcier, Château Sanctus, and Château Laroque offer the clearest proof.

Estates on the western side of Saint-Émilion, where sandy and clay-rich soils dominate, are equally worth attention. More approachable classified growths such as Château La Marzelle, Château Montlabert, and Château Grand Corbin show a juicier, sweeter texture in 2023, with a first impression that can even bring to mind the gentle melt of chilled yoghurt on the palate.

As for the leading names of the appellation, performances largely remain at their usual high level, with very few missteps. 

Fronsac｜A Vintage Made for Easy Drinking

Across the appellation, ripeness in 2023 is right where it should be. With limited pressure from downy mildew, fruit expression comes through cleanly and clearly. More importantly, tannin levels are noticeably lower this year. Even with relatively low pH values, the wines enter the palate without any sense of hardness.

Compared with the traditional image of Fronsac as a late-ripening terroir, most wines in 2023 show surprisingly supple tannins. They are fresh and juicy on entry, finish clean and precise, and carry a saline note that unfurls gently across the palate like a wisp of smoke. Just six months after bottling, they are already drinking with remarkable ease – you can enjoy them generously, without hesitation.

This brings my bottled tasting report on the Bordeaux 2023 vintage to its conclusion.

As is customary at AMA, the “AMA Selection” 2023 is being released alongside this bottled tasting report. This list represents a great deal of personal effort. It includes both red and white wines, highlights estates that truly stood out, and is designed to suit a wide range of budgets and occasions.

2023 does not stand at the centre of the spotlight, but it reaches a rare balance of elegance, maturity, and completeness, revealing itself softly and with conviction.

As always, I will close this annual report with a concise four-line key, a quick guide to the vintage in just a few lines:

Endless spring rains, sudden heat

Acidity the spine, sweetness the beat

Classical grace, terroir revealed

Dry whites in glow, sweet wines fulfilled

All scores and tasting notes for the 2023 vintage have been published across major platforms. AMA annual members can log in at www.alexandrema.com to access bilingual reviews in English and Chinese.

If you haven’t joined us yet, I welcome you to register on our website, sign up now and be part of the journey!

Your support is the driving force behind my continuous pursuit of excellence.

See you soon, cheers!

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AMA Selection 2023

In keeping with AMA’s tradition, the AMA Selection 2023 is released alongside the tasting report of Bordeaux 2023 in bottle.

The 2023 Bordeaux vintage brings together elegance and ripeness in harmonious balance, expressing what I described as Bordeaux’s “Neo-Classicism”  – a classic interpretation of traditional Bordeaux character through the lens of modern craftsmanship. This year’s AMA Selection naturally shines with a constellation of outstanding wines. In addition, as more friends have consulted me about white wines over the past two years, I have responded to this growing interest by carefully curating a dedicated AMA Selection 2023 for white wines.

The AMA Selection 2023 gathers the most impressive performers of the vintage, comprising 82 red wines and 32 white wines. These wines span a wide range of budgets and drinking occasions, truly representing the finest of the finest. I am confident they will make it easier for everyone to find the bottles that best suit their preferences.

Now, let us take a closer look at the wines that have earned their place on this year’s list!!

<Kunlun Selection>

Outstanding Grands Vins of the vintage above 98 points, undoubtedly the top collectors’ “best love”.

The Kunlun Mountains, known as “the ancestor of all mountains” and the “Dragon vein of Huaxia”, is the most divine Mountain Range in China, just like Mont Olympus in Greece. It holds an extremely high and prominent place in Chinese mythology and culture.

Selection Criteria:  Cult-status Prestigious Grands Vins awarded 98 points or above by Alexandre MA in a given vintage, representing the ultimate choice for the most discerning collectors.

<Hidden Dragon Selection>

Symbolic Definition: The Chinese dragon – “Long” is a legendary creature in Chinese culture that symbolizes power, honor, and dignity. Behold the sleeping dragon, with its mythical power, destined for great success upon awakening.
Hidden Dragon Selection: Prestigious estates awarded 95 points or above by Alexandre MA in a given vintage, distinguished by exceptional vintage performance and retaining substantial growth potential in the Chinese market, with compelling prospects for both collectors and long-term investors.

<Hidden Jade Selection>

Symbolic definition: In Chinese culture, jade symbolizes nobility, beauty, and purity. An uncarved piece of jade, after being carefully carved and polished, will become a brilliant and precious gem.
Hidden Jade Selection: Wines from a given vintage that have demonstrated remarkable performance, offering exceptional value at a quality level comparable to leading estates, stand ready to reward those with vision and discernment.